The July issue of "Glastonbury Life" published an excellent article concerning the oriental bittersweet problem in town. It also featured the actions being sponsored by Glastonbury Partners in Planting and some helpful tips provided by the town Tree Warden.
There is also a very insightful an Editorial commentary on page 61.
You can read each by clicking on the applicable link:
"Glastonbury Life" Oriental Bittersweet Article, July 2013
"Glastonbury Life" Oriental Bittersweet Editorial, July 2013
Thanks to "Glastonbury Life" and Nancy Thompson, Editor, for supporting the cause!
Friday, June 28, 2013
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
New Favorite Bittersweet-Fighting Tool
Property owners lucky enough to have only a small, new oriental bittersweet infestation, who spot it and act early are well-rewarded. They can stop the spread by pulling new seedlings and vines, treating if appropriate, and with a little periodic re-checking the area they can count themselves among the fortunate few who never have to bring out the heavy artillery (all those tools you see in horror movies or in mob movies to get people to talk).
This post is for the rest of us, the less fortunate, who regularly need to haul out the loppers to fight a larger infestation. We're constantly lurking in the garden tool aisle of the hardware store searching for anything that might make the job easier, faster and less back-breaking.
This site does not endorse products or make comparisons. That said, the editorial we recently purchased a Fiskars Pruning Stik (their spelling) because it looking like it might fill a spot in the tool inventory somewhere between pruning shears and loppers. Fiskars has made this product for at least 10 years and Amazon buyers currently rate it 4.7 stars out of a possible 5 (we purchased it locally).
The tool is 62" long and weighs only 1.9 pounds. They also make a longer, slightly heavier extendable version. The tradeoff for the light weight is that the Pruning Stik appears to be somewhat lightly made and less durable than a good pair of loppers. It also has more moving parts to potentially break. There may be comparable products that are better or worse. As always, do your own homework.
So the question is, what does this do that you can't do with the loppers or pole trimmer you already have?
Here's the big advantage. This is definitely a back-saver. The Stik has a "bypass lopper" type head that can be adjusted 230 degrees (according to Fiskars). That and the long reach make it extremely easy to cut a vine near ground level with no bending whatsoever. And because this is a stick it is very easy to get the head right to where you want to cut. There is no external rope to get tangled in things so it is much easier to use than a rope-pull pole pruner/saw. It has no provision for attaching a saw blade but there's no real need for it.
The weight and size make it a tool you can easily bring along on a maintenance walk and not feel like you're dragging along a heavy or oddly shaped tool. And of course there is the reach (both down and up, as well as into a tree), which you can't easily get with loppers.
Tried it out today and it cut a 1" black birch sapling at the base with ease. Black birch is pretty soft compared to oak or maple but harder than a bittersweet vine of the same diameter. So this should handle most maintenance-type vine cutting tasks with less effort and bending compared to loppers. Fiskars says it's good "up to 1 1/4".
Don't throw away your loppers, they should still be your standard go-to tool for heavy duty lopping work. But the Pruning Stik appears to be something to consider for that quick walk around the property where you want to "reach out and cut something" without the back-bending and effort that goes with loppers.
The 62" model retails for about $50 and the extendable version for about $100. They are available for less (mine was $43 and change). We'll see how long it holds up but in terms of making a necessary job easier on the back the difference was like night and day.
This post is for the rest of us, the less fortunate, who regularly need to haul out the loppers to fight a larger infestation. We're constantly lurking in the garden tool aisle of the hardware store searching for anything that might make the job easier, faster and less back-breaking.
This site does not endorse products or make comparisons. That said, the editorial we recently purchased a Fiskars Pruning Stik (their spelling) because it looking like it might fill a spot in the tool inventory somewhere between pruning shears and loppers. Fiskars has made this product for at least 10 years and Amazon buyers currently rate it 4.7 stars out of a possible 5 (we purchased it locally).
The tool is 62" long and weighs only 1.9 pounds. They also make a longer, slightly heavier extendable version. The tradeoff for the light weight is that the Pruning Stik appears to be somewhat lightly made and less durable than a good pair of loppers. It also has more moving parts to potentially break. There may be comparable products that are better or worse. As always, do your own homework.
So the question is, what does this do that you can't do with the loppers or pole trimmer you already have?
Here's the big advantage. This is definitely a back-saver. The Stik has a "bypass lopper" type head that can be adjusted 230 degrees (according to Fiskars). That and the long reach make it extremely easy to cut a vine near ground level with no bending whatsoever. And because this is a stick it is very easy to get the head right to where you want to cut. There is no external rope to get tangled in things so it is much easier to use than a rope-pull pole pruner/saw. It has no provision for attaching a saw blade but there's no real need for it.
The weight and size make it a tool you can easily bring along on a maintenance walk and not feel like you're dragging along a heavy or oddly shaped tool. And of course there is the reach (both down and up, as well as into a tree), which you can't easily get with loppers.
Tried it out today and it cut a 1" black birch sapling at the base with ease. Black birch is pretty soft compared to oak or maple but harder than a bittersweet vine of the same diameter. So this should handle most maintenance-type vine cutting tasks with less effort and bending compared to loppers. Fiskars says it's good "up to 1 1/4".
Don't throw away your loppers, they should still be your standard go-to tool for heavy duty lopping work. But the Pruning Stik appears to be something to consider for that quick walk around the property where you want to "reach out and cut something" without the back-bending and effort that goes with loppers.
The 62" model retails for about $50 and the extendable version for about $100. They are available for less (mine was $43 and change). We'll see how long it holds up but in terms of making a necessary job easier on the back the difference was like night and day.
Above: 62" "Pruning Stik" weighs only 1.9 pounds. Reflective tape has been added, it doesn't come that way from Fiskars (makes the tool easier to find when you leave it in the woods; go back at dusk with a flashlight and look for the glow!).
Above: Easily cuts vines without bending down.
If you have any surgeon-installed hardware in your back this is priceless.
Above: Reaches overhead into a tight spot very easily.
Here are a few video links showing the tool in use:
Sunday, June 23, 2013
Partners Wanted, Must Be Willing to Fight Invasive Plants
Glastonbury Partners in Planting is looking for other like-minded groups and organizations who want to help fight the local invasive plant problem, in particular oriental bittersweet.
By forming broader partnerships, sharing knowledge and pooling resources we can make this a true community-wide effort to address a community-wide problem. The problem may be here to stay but we can work together to minimize its spread and damage. The alternative (doing nothing) is unthinkable to everyone who appreciates the town's natural beauty.
There are many garden, nature, and conservation groups in Glastonbury who are concerned about the damage being done to our trees and landscape by oriental bittersweet. Many businesses in town have an interest in seeing the problem contained. Various groups who use town parks (baseball teams, etc.) are also concerned and at least one team has already worked with the town to help out at Riverfront Park.
By joining together we can make our collective efforts much more efficient and effective, inspire more community involvement, and help control the problem in more areas.
We invite interested groups to join the effort beginning with our planned work day in September. If you belong to a club, organization, team, group or business interested in helping on the work day or with the 2014 overall invasive plant strategy let us know! Please contact information@gpip.org
By forming broader partnerships, sharing knowledge and pooling resources we can make this a true community-wide effort to address a community-wide problem. The problem may be here to stay but we can work together to minimize its spread and damage. The alternative (doing nothing) is unthinkable to everyone who appreciates the town's natural beauty.
There are many garden, nature, and conservation groups in Glastonbury who are concerned about the damage being done to our trees and landscape by oriental bittersweet. Many businesses in town have an interest in seeing the problem contained. Various groups who use town parks (baseball teams, etc.) are also concerned and at least one team has already worked with the town to help out at Riverfront Park.
By joining together we can make our collective efforts much more efficient and effective, inspire more community involvement, and help control the problem in more areas.
We invite interested groups to join the effort beginning with our planned work day in September. If you belong to a club, organization, team, group or business interested in helping on the work day or with the 2014 overall invasive plant strategy let us know! Please contact information@gpip.org
Friday, June 21, 2013
Oriental Bittersweet: What's the Problem?
The June 20th issue of The Glastonbury Citizen included Glastonbury Partners in Planting's letter thanking those who attended the June 5th Walking Tour and announcing the new Invasive Plants blog (which you are viewing now).
If this is your first visit, welcome! For new visitors this post will take a step back in time to revisit the basic questions that started all of this: "What are those vines that are killing the trees, and how bad is the problem?" Here are two videos that answer these questions.
What's the Problem? The following video may look familiar if you have ever crossed the Putnam Bridge between Glastonbury and Wethersfield. It captures the devastation that oriental bittersweet vines cause to trees and the landscape in general. This area is used here as an example but the problem is everywhere in Glastonbury as well as the state and much of the country. It is spreading rapidly. Note that the videos below can be enlarged to full screen by clicking on the square size icon in the lower right corner of the viewing window; at the end of the video exit full screen by hitting "Esc" on your keyboard.
What exactly is oriental bittersweet? Below is the oriental bittersweet video from our June 5th Invasive Plant Walking Tour at Riverfront Park (the same area featured in the video above). Keep in mind as you watch this video that this is a community problem. It is everywhere. The only reason we featured Riverfront Park is because it is a public area and the town is so supportive of this effort.
If this is your first visit, welcome! For new visitors this post will take a step back in time to revisit the basic questions that started all of this: "What are those vines that are killing the trees, and how bad is the problem?" Here are two videos that answer these questions.
What's the Problem? The following video may look familiar if you have ever crossed the Putnam Bridge between Glastonbury and Wethersfield. It captures the devastation that oriental bittersweet vines cause to trees and the landscape in general. This area is used here as an example but the problem is everywhere in Glastonbury as well as the state and much of the country. It is spreading rapidly. Note that the videos below can be enlarged to full screen by clicking on the square size icon in the lower right corner of the viewing window; at the end of the video exit full screen by hitting "Esc" on your keyboard.
What exactly is oriental bittersweet? Below is the oriental bittersweet video from our June 5th Invasive Plant Walking Tour at Riverfront Park (the same area featured in the video above). Keep in mind as you watch this video that this is a community problem. It is everywhere. The only reason we featured Riverfront Park is because it is a public area and the town is so supportive of this effort.
To watch all of the videos from the Walking Tour, scroll down to the bottom of this page to a link to the full video playlist.
For more information about Glastonbury Partners in Planting click on the "About" tab just below the blog title at the top of this page.
Thursday, June 20, 2013
Oriental Bittersweet: Here Come The Berries
It's June 20th, a beautiful day to live in Glastonbury, and the oriental bittersweet vines are beginning to develop their fruit. It first appears as small green berries along the vine where the leaves attach. As these berries mature they will become the distinctive bright red berries in the orange husks that you see in the late summer and fall. Don't use oriental bittersweet for holiday wreaths and decorating because it will just spread the infestation when the berries drop from the vines.
This is a major reason to cut oriental bittersweet vines ahead of the maturation of the berries. Once cut and deprived of nutrients the above-ground portion of the cut vine will die. Immature berries will also die before becoming viable, although nutrients already in the vine can continue the maturation process for a short period after vines have been cut. The preferred window of time for cutting vines will be closing as we get into mid-summer. If you can, get out there and do your cutting ahead of the berries maturing.
Cutting vines with mature fruit on them is still worthwhile but the vines will drop viable seeds unless you pull the vines down with the berries intact and dispose of the debris in a manner that prevents the berries from developing into next year's crop of seedlings.
Always carefully inspect trees before cutting any vines that have grown up into a tree. Look for power lines, unsafe branches, weaknesses in the tree itself, and vines that may have crossed into other nearby trees. When in doubt, hire a professional. Pulling the vines too hard can damage tree limbs or worse, bring a hidden branch or entire tree down on your head. Be careful and if some gentle tugging doesn't work, leave it. The vine will die and eventually fall out of the tree on its own. All the more reason to deal with oriental bittersweet well before it gets up into the trees.
Bittersweet seeds develop inside these berries. When the mature berries are eaten by birds the seed portion of the berry passes through the bird's digestive system undamaged and is later (for lack of a better term) pooped out, fully viable and ready to develop wherever it happens to fall. Or if not eaten the fruit simply drops from the vine to the ground. Either way it will appear the following year as a new seedling.
This is a major reason to cut oriental bittersweet vines ahead of the maturation of the berries. Once cut and deprived of nutrients the above-ground portion of the cut vine will die. Immature berries will also die before becoming viable, although nutrients already in the vine can continue the maturation process for a short period after vines have been cut. The preferred window of time for cutting vines will be closing as we get into mid-summer. If you can, get out there and do your cutting ahead of the berries maturing.
Cutting vines with mature fruit on them is still worthwhile but the vines will drop viable seeds unless you pull the vines down with the berries intact and dispose of the debris in a manner that prevents the berries from developing into next year's crop of seedlings.
Always carefully inspect trees before cutting any vines that have grown up into a tree. Look for power lines, unsafe branches, weaknesses in the tree itself, and vines that may have crossed into other nearby trees. When in doubt, hire a professional. Pulling the vines too hard can damage tree limbs or worse, bring a hidden branch or entire tree down on your head. Be careful and if some gentle tugging doesn't work, leave it. The vine will die and eventually fall out of the tree on its own. All the more reason to deal with oriental bittersweet well before it gets up into the trees.
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
Oriental Bittersweet: The Cost of Neglect
As mentioned in the 5/23/13 Glastonbury Citizen article, it pays to tackle any oriental bittersweet growth as early and quickly as possible. Once the root system is established and spreads out the battle becomes much more demanding and drawn out. Whether you select a chemical or mechanical approach or a combination, the same rule applies: the sooner you deal with it the more work and cost you'll save yourself in the long run.
How much work and cost?
One GPIP member has been addressing a serious infestation on land purchased several years ago. The prior owner did not understand they had a problem and just thought the property was "overgrown."
Our GPIP member has worked on the problem every year since the purchase. When the subject of "the cost of neglect" came up our bittersweet battler went to his truck (specifically bought for hauling bittersweet vine debris and trees killed by the vines to the town landfill) and added up the landfill receipts for just April thru mid-June this year:
Inspecting a property regularly and dealing with small, new infestations is within almost anyone's physical capability and budget. But the picture changes dramatically after years or decades of neglect. This is the battle we all share as a community, beginning in our own yards.
How much work and cost?
One GPIP member has been addressing a serious infestation on land purchased several years ago. The prior owner did not understand they had a problem and just thought the property was "overgrown."
Our GPIP member has worked on the problem every year since the purchase. When the subject of "the cost of neglect" came up our bittersweet battler went to his truck (specifically bought for hauling bittersweet vine debris and trees killed by the vines to the town landfill) and added up the landfill receipts for just April thru mid-June this year:
- Professional tree service (take down large dead tree): $439.01;
- (18) round-trips to the town landfill totaling over 300 miles;
- Over $500.00 for permit fee and load charges;
- Over 14,500 pounds of debris (that's over 7 tons).
Inspecting a property regularly and dealing with small, new infestations is within almost anyone's physical capability and budget. But the picture changes dramatically after years or decades of neglect. This is the battle we all share as a community, beginning in our own yards.
Tuesday, June 18, 2013
Glastonbury Citizen Article (5/23/13) Response
The response to GPIP's front page Glastonbury Citizen article on oriental bittersweet and poison ivy has been very encouraging! Jim Hallas, Publisher/Editor of The Glastonbury Citizen shared the following:
Guess that means we'll be seeing more letters to the editor in coming issues. Anything that keeps the subject in front of people is going to help.
If you missed the article a copy is on the Media Articles page of this blog. For more information on The Glastonbury Citizen, including how to subscribe, go to http://www.glcitizen.com/index.html
"I think you've started something here.
I've had more response on bittersweet than I've had on the board of education budget!"
Guess that means we'll be seeing more letters to the editor in coming issues. Anything that keeps the subject in front of people is going to help.
If you missed the article a copy is on the Media Articles page of this blog. For more information on The Glastonbury Citizen, including how to subscribe, go to http://www.glcitizen.com/index.html
Sunday, June 16, 2013
Poison Ivy: Oriental Bittersweet's Partner in Crime
It's mid-June in Glastonbury and poison ivy is approaching its full glory. While poison ivy is a native plant therefore not invasive, it can sure be a nuisance. If you look for infestations of oriental bittersweet there is an excellent chance of finding poison ivy standing guard, complicating the process of cutting, treating, or removing the oriental bittersweet.
The most important rule of poison ivy is know what it looks like. Everybody has heard the poison ivy rhymes: Leaves of three, let them be; hairy vine, no friend of mine; and berries white, run in fright. This post will provide a few pictures to put with the rhymes.
The second rule is do your homework. There are abundant resources that will tell you about precautions to take such as barrier creams, clothing to wear, how to work around poison ivy, risks and consequences, how to wash up afterward, washing clothing that has been in contact with poison ivy, how to avoid getting poison ivy from pets that have been into it, what to do when you do get poison ivy, and so on. You have to know what you're doing otherwise the consequences can be very unpleasant at best and put you in the hospital at worst. If you work outside and don't have a product like Tecnu (poison ivy wash) buy it now.
A few helpful links are provided on the Resources page of this blog. Here's a tip most experts don't tell you: You can put on your protective gloves and clothing and follow all the rules. Things will be great until you forget you've been touching poison ivy and smack that mosquito on your face or scratch your nose with your gloved hand. You might as well do it with a poison ivy leaf because the poison ivy oils (urushiol) on your gloves will transfer to your skin. So don't do that! Same with shoe laces. If you tramp around in poison ivy then remove your gloves to untie your boot laces, those laces have probably been rubbing against poison ivy. Everybody's happy until somebody starts itching!
Finally, none of the above matters if you don't look first. Seeing poison ivy after you've been standing in it is a very bad feeling, especially if you didn't follow the second rule. Always be on the lookout for poison ivy and spot it before you're in it.
The following pictures cover poison ivy vine and leaf development from April thru June:
The most important rule of poison ivy is know what it looks like. Everybody has heard the poison ivy rhymes: Leaves of three, let them be; hairy vine, no friend of mine; and berries white, run in fright. This post will provide a few pictures to put with the rhymes.
The second rule is do your homework. There are abundant resources that will tell you about precautions to take such as barrier creams, clothing to wear, how to work around poison ivy, risks and consequences, how to wash up afterward, washing clothing that has been in contact with poison ivy, how to avoid getting poison ivy from pets that have been into it, what to do when you do get poison ivy, and so on. You have to know what you're doing otherwise the consequences can be very unpleasant at best and put you in the hospital at worst. If you work outside and don't have a product like Tecnu (poison ivy wash) buy it now.
A few helpful links are provided on the Resources page of this blog. Here's a tip most experts don't tell you: You can put on your protective gloves and clothing and follow all the rules. Things will be great until you forget you've been touching poison ivy and smack that mosquito on your face or scratch your nose with your gloved hand. You might as well do it with a poison ivy leaf because the poison ivy oils (urushiol) on your gloves will transfer to your skin. So don't do that! Same with shoe laces. If you tramp around in poison ivy then remove your gloves to untie your boot laces, those laces have probably been rubbing against poison ivy. Everybody's happy until somebody starts itching!
Finally, none of the above matters if you don't look first. Seeing poison ivy after you've been standing in it is a very bad feeling, especially if you didn't follow the second rule. Always be on the lookout for poison ivy and spot it before you're in it.
The following pictures cover poison ivy vine and leaf development from April thru June:
Above: New vine growth in early April. Leaves usually begin reddish then turn green.
Above: More new growth, April.
Above: Same new growth in May, turning green.
Above: New growth in April, attaching to granite ledge.
Above: Same new growth in May.
Above: Poison ivy vine pulled away from tree trunk. Note hairy tendrils on vine.
Above: Close-up of tendrils on poison ivy vine.
All parts of a poison ivy plant can release urushiol, including the vine and root system.
Above: Classic poison ivy leaf pattern, with three leaflets (early June).
The stem on the center leaflet is the longest of the three.
The stem on the center leaflet is the longest of the three.
Color will change to oranges and reds in the fall.
Above: Closer view of what to look for. Three leaves attaching to stem at the same point. Note the side leaflets which are distinctly shaped ("side leaflets like mittens, will itch like the dickens"). The distinct mitten shape may not be as pronounced as the plant above so don't assume a symmetrical side leaflet means it's not poison ivy (see some of the leaflets in photo below).
Above: Growing as a vine along with oriental bittersweet.
You don't want to brush up against this so look around you as well as at the ground!
Above: Growing as a ground cover in shady area. Note slightly darker leaves.
Don't you wish your whole garden could look this healthy??
June 17: Here come the berries. They aren't white yet but you should still "run in fright."
Just don't fall into a poison ivy patch when you do.
Friday, June 14, 2013
Japanese Knotweed: What? Where?
It's easy to drive right by large incursions of Japanese knotweed and not realize what it is. The best primer on Japanese knotweed is the video from our June 5th walking tour, where Donna Ellis gave us the basics. Next time you drive down Welles St. or Naubuc Ave., see if you can spot it. Note how aggressive the growth is, the density of the incursion and how other plant growth is completely blocked out. Here are some hints to help you spot it, followed by a link to the walking tour video:
Bittersweet and Grape Vine: Respouting After Cutting
Here's why it's so important to go back and check on cut vines and roots. In this case a 2" diameter stem was cut in early spring (about 2 months ago). Note the vigorous regrowth. A small, new root has also developed. Anticipating your question- no treatment was applied to the cut area when the stem was cut.
Thursday, June 13, 2013
Landscape Service Companies: What Do They Know?
Many Glastonbury residents have turned over the bulk of their landscape maintenance tasks to a landscape or lawn service company. Services may include fertilizing, mowing, edging, leaf removal, spring and fall clean-up, snow removal and more.
One frequently overlooked area is the invasive plant management plan for the property. If you're lucky you don't need a plan. But if your property includes or borders a field or wooded area or there is an invasive plant problem nearby, odds are you will eventually have a problem if you don't already.
The most common and damaging invasive in Glastonbury is oriental bittersweet, with burning bush (winged euonymus) and Japanese knotweed next on the list. Wild grapevine also does damage and poison ivy is a nuisance but as native plants they are technically not invasive.
Landscape and lawn service companies vary widely when it comes to invasive plant expertise, as well as how (and even whether) they deal with problems like oriental bittersweet infestation. There is a good chance that controlling invasives (other than as part of the regular lawn maintenance) does not fall within your current service agreement.
When selecting a landscape service company you'll need to ask them specifically about their expertise in eradicating and controlling oriental bittersweet and any other invasives you want to get rid of. Ask the company if they offer such a service, how qualified they are, whether they have any necessary license(s), what the service entails, the cost, and what kind of result you can expect.
One way to determine a service provider's knowledge is to walk your property with the provider. Have them point out any invasive plant issues by identifying the plants and explaining what the control plan would be for that plant. If the provider overlooks or mis-identifies plants, or you are not satisfied with their plan, you may want to look for someone with more expertise.
One frequently overlooked area is the invasive plant management plan for the property. If you're lucky you don't need a plan. But if your property includes or borders a field or wooded area or there is an invasive plant problem nearby, odds are you will eventually have a problem if you don't already.
The most common and damaging invasive in Glastonbury is oriental bittersweet, with burning bush (winged euonymus) and Japanese knotweed next on the list. Wild grapevine also does damage and poison ivy is a nuisance but as native plants they are technically not invasive.
Landscape and lawn service companies vary widely when it comes to invasive plant expertise, as well as how (and even whether) they deal with problems like oriental bittersweet infestation. There is a good chance that controlling invasives (other than as part of the regular lawn maintenance) does not fall within your current service agreement.
When selecting a landscape service company you'll need to ask them specifically about their expertise in eradicating and controlling oriental bittersweet and any other invasives you want to get rid of. Ask the company if they offer such a service, how qualified they are, whether they have any necessary license(s), what the service entails, the cost, and what kind of result you can expect.
One way to determine a service provider's knowledge is to walk your property with the provider. Have them point out any invasive plant issues by identifying the plants and explaining what the control plan would be for that plant. If the provider overlooks or mis-identifies plants, or you are not satisfied with their plan, you may want to look for someone with more expertise.
How Do You Tell Your Neighbor They're Infested?
Infested with what? Not termites, carpenter ants, bedbugs or lice. Oriental bittersweet!
Most of us here in Glastonbury adhere to the fine old New England tradition of respecting our neighbor's privacy. If a neighbor's junk pile of stuff that is no longer recognizable becomes a main feature of the view from our deck, we might mention it with the greatest of tact. If nothing changes we might look the other way, offer help with removing it, or perhaps cut to the chase and plant a hedge!
We can at least take solace in knowing that tacky is not contagious. It isn't spread by berries and doesn't have roots and vines that will just grow through the hedge into our property.
Then there's oriental bittersweet. It is highly contagious from property to property. Berries are eaten and spread by birds; roots can travel many feet under fences and pop up on a neighbor's property. Vines will grow into trees then spread into neighboring trees and drop berries, producing more vines.
The result is that some of us work hard and spend time keeping our property from becoming infested, only to face an endless supply of new infestation due to a neighbor's unintentional ignorance or neglect.
How DO you tell a neighbor their property is infested? How do you educate a friend or neighbor on the damage the vines will cause on their own property, and how that contributes to widening the infestation and damage to other peoples' property? Do you talk about the impact on property values when trees die and an entire neighborhood is visibly infested? Do you organize an intervention?
The better you know your neighbor the easier it is to bring up the topic in a friendly, constructive way. We already know the excuses- ignorance, time, money, l-a-z-y and "who cares?" Some neighbors may be physically unable to deal with the problem and financially unable to pay someone else to do it. How can we help them?
This post doesn't claim to know the answer. One thing is for certain. Containing the spread of damage caused by oriental bittersweet depends heavily on neighbor educating and helping neighbor.
What are your ideas on how to educate a neighbor?
Most of us here in Glastonbury adhere to the fine old New England tradition of respecting our neighbor's privacy. If a neighbor's junk pile of stuff that is no longer recognizable becomes a main feature of the view from our deck, we might mention it with the greatest of tact. If nothing changes we might look the other way, offer help with removing it, or perhaps cut to the chase and plant a hedge!
We can at least take solace in knowing that tacky is not contagious. It isn't spread by berries and doesn't have roots and vines that will just grow through the hedge into our property.
Then there's oriental bittersweet. It is highly contagious from property to property. Berries are eaten and spread by birds; roots can travel many feet under fences and pop up on a neighbor's property. Vines will grow into trees then spread into neighboring trees and drop berries, producing more vines.
The result is that some of us work hard and spend time keeping our property from becoming infested, only to face an endless supply of new infestation due to a neighbor's unintentional ignorance or neglect.
How DO you tell a neighbor their property is infested? How do you educate a friend or neighbor on the damage the vines will cause on their own property, and how that contributes to widening the infestation and damage to other peoples' property? Do you talk about the impact on property values when trees die and an entire neighborhood is visibly infested? Do you organize an intervention?
The better you know your neighbor the easier it is to bring up the topic in a friendly, constructive way. We already know the excuses- ignorance, time, money, l-a-z-y and "who cares?" Some neighbors may be physically unable to deal with the problem and financially unable to pay someone else to do it. How can we help them?
This post doesn't claim to know the answer. One thing is for certain. Containing the spread of damage caused by oriental bittersweet depends heavily on neighbor educating and helping neighbor.
What are your ideas on how to educate a neighbor?
Oriental Bittersweet: Is 2013 A Tipping Point?
Several of Glastonbury's experienced bittersweet battlers have commented that they are seeing more bittersweet infestations than ever, especially new growth in areas that had been clear in the past.
Are we just suffering from bittersweet paranoia? Or has the wet weather created a perfect storm for bittersweet growth? Have some of the larger infestations in town provided such a rich supply of berries that a large number of new infestations is inevitable?
What have you been seeing in your part of town?
Are we just suffering from bittersweet paranoia? Or has the wet weather created a perfect storm for bittersweet growth? Have some of the larger infestations in town provided such a rich supply of berries that a large number of new infestations is inevitable?
What have you been seeing in your part of town?
Oriental Bittersweet: When to Cut Vines?
Oriental bittersweet berries start to form in late summer into fall so the best time to cut vines is before the berries develop. If you cut after the berries develop they'll still drop from the cut vines and re-seed the area. Birds will also eat the vines and spread infestation to your neighbors and around town. If you don't cut at all that guarantees the berries will develop so if the only time you can cut is during berry season, go for it. It will help limit the infestation next year.
From a comfort point of view springtime is a good time to cut, before weather gets too hot and before extensive underbrush develops and makes access to the base of the vines difficult. Cutting before leaves develop on the vines will allow the tree canopy to benefit from spring growth and begin recovering sooner.
Keep in mind that if leaves have not appeared yet you may not be able to distinguish small bittersweet vines from poison ivy, so take appropriate precautions on the assumption that some vines may be poison ivy.
If you are taking a "cut and treat" approach an excellent time to cut is late fall when the vine is pulling nutrients from the leaves to the root system. It will draw any treatment you apply to the cut stem back to the root system. Whether or not to use an herbicide is an individual decision (see "Invasive Plant Control and Disclaimer" tab of this blog).
Although some times are better than others there is no bad time to pull or cut oriental bittersweet vines. Cutting even one large vine about 9" above ground and then cutting the portion hanging from the tree about 5' off the ground will provide a huge amount of relief to the tree canopy as the vine drops its leaves and stops strangling the tree trunk and branches.
Cutting mature vines a little above ground level makes it easier to go back later, find the cut stems and inspect for re-sprouting. Pulling the entire vine out of the ground is an excellent approach but is not always possible. Cutting the portion left hanging from the tree about 5' above ground makes it harder for future vine regrowth to latch onto the old vine and climb back up into the tree.
Pulling the remaining vine down from the tree is a good cosmetic approach but not necessary. Most vines are quite securely attached and pulling the vine can damage tree branches. It can also be dangerous if the vine is attached to broken or rotted tree limbs. If the vines have leaves on them you may not be able to see the condition of the tree limbs under the leaves. Eventually the vine will drop on its own.
Properly dispose of cut or pulled vines, especially if there are berries on the vines. For proper disposal information go to CIPWG's disposal guidelines.
Be sure to do your research before attacking your bittersweet infestation. It will make your investment of time and work much more effective. Always inspect trees and the tree canopy for unsafe conditions before working in any wooded area. Identify any poison ivy (use a product like Tecnu), and inspect for ticks after working in the woods.
From a comfort point of view springtime is a good time to cut, before weather gets too hot and before extensive underbrush develops and makes access to the base of the vines difficult. Cutting before leaves develop on the vines will allow the tree canopy to benefit from spring growth and begin recovering sooner.
Keep in mind that if leaves have not appeared yet you may not be able to distinguish small bittersweet vines from poison ivy, so take appropriate precautions on the assumption that some vines may be poison ivy.
If you are taking a "cut and treat" approach an excellent time to cut is late fall when the vine is pulling nutrients from the leaves to the root system. It will draw any treatment you apply to the cut stem back to the root system. Whether or not to use an herbicide is an individual decision (see "Invasive Plant Control and Disclaimer" tab of this blog).
Although some times are better than others there is no bad time to pull or cut oriental bittersweet vines. Cutting even one large vine about 9" above ground and then cutting the portion hanging from the tree about 5' off the ground will provide a huge amount of relief to the tree canopy as the vine drops its leaves and stops strangling the tree trunk and branches.
Cutting mature vines a little above ground level makes it easier to go back later, find the cut stems and inspect for re-sprouting. Pulling the entire vine out of the ground is an excellent approach but is not always possible. Cutting the portion left hanging from the tree about 5' above ground makes it harder for future vine regrowth to latch onto the old vine and climb back up into the tree.
Pulling the remaining vine down from the tree is a good cosmetic approach but not necessary. Most vines are quite securely attached and pulling the vine can damage tree branches. It can also be dangerous if the vine is attached to broken or rotted tree limbs. If the vines have leaves on them you may not be able to see the condition of the tree limbs under the leaves. Eventually the vine will drop on its own.
Properly dispose of cut or pulled vines, especially if there are berries on the vines. For proper disposal information go to CIPWG's disposal guidelines.
Be sure to do your research before attacking your bittersweet infestation. It will make your investment of time and work much more effective. Always inspect trees and the tree canopy for unsafe conditions before working in any wooded area. Identify any poison ivy (use a product like Tecnu), and inspect for ticks after working in the woods.
Monday, June 10, 2013
2013 CIPWG Support Proposal Submitted
On May 31st GPIP applied for support from the Connecticut Invasive Plant Working Group (www.cipwg.uconn.edu) in connection with our proposed work day later this year. A CIPWG review board considers all applications and selects those they will be able to support.
CIPWG support consists of helping to get the word out to their extensive network of experienced volunteers, a presence at the actual work day, and support with other project activities.
We're hopeful that our proposal will be approved but either way, our work day is
tentatively scheduled for September 28, 2013.
Stay tuned for updates!
Sunday, June 9, 2013
Mugging Mugwort
Here's a link to an interesting blog post concerning mugwort:
And here's the mugwort video from our Riverfront Park Invasive Plant Walking Tour:
Oriental Bittersweet Root Structure
Ever wondered just how far out those oriental bittersweet roots extend?
Here are two vines that were carefully hand-pulled to answer the question. Neither vine is more than a couple feet in length above ground, but the top vine has over 6 feet of root length, and the lower has over 8 feet! Given the perennial nature of these vines and the fact that new growth sprouts from the root structure, it's a pretty scary picture. If you pull the vines be sure to get as much as possible, and go back periodically to remove any additional sprouting.
GPIP Invasive Plant Walking Tour, June 5, 2013 (playlist)
Our invasive plant walking tour on June 5, 2013 was a big hit! The event was well attended and Donna Ellis gave an insightful and educational presentation. Donna is Senior Extension Educator at UCONN, and co-chair of the Connecticut Invasive Plant Working Group www.cipwg.uconn.edu
Thanks to Ray Purtell of the Glastonbury Park and Rec Department for attending
and for his opening remarks to kick off the event.
If you missed the tour please take advantage of the video presentation to watch it mosquito-free from your computer at home!
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